Master Knitter Level I – Swatches #4, #5, & #6 – Increases

Swatches 4 through 6 in the Master Knitter Level I program are all about increases. Specifically, each swatch demonstrates a particular type of increase. The increases are done on each side, with three stitches before the right edge increase and three stitches after the left edge increase.

Bar Increases

Swatch 4 - Bar Increase

Swatch 4 demonstrates the Bar Increase. This is probably the increase most knitters first learned to make when knitting. It often written as “KFB” in patterns — which means “Knit in the front and back loops”. When you knit into the front loop of a knit stitch and then knit in the back loop of the same knit stitch, the resulting increase has a purl bump where the second stitch was made. It is clearly visible as you can see in this picture.

I learned a few things working on this swatch. Since I am now much more aware of my tension, I found that the purl bumps looked much better if I made certain I kept the tension even with both stitches. It’s much the same issue as when I had trouble getting even tension in ribbing.

Also, through my research, I learned that you should never make your increases on the very edge of your knitting — you should have at least one stitch on the edge before doing the increase. This makes it much easier and neater to do seams. This is something to pay attention to when you are knitting pieces that will be sewn together — I know I will practice this in my future knitting projects.

Swatch 5 - Knitted Make 1 Increases

Swatch 5 - Make 1 Increases

Swatch 5 demonstrates Make 1 increases. On the right edge, I knit an M1R increase — which means “Make 1 Right” — this is a right-slanting increase. It is made by inserting the left needle from the back and lifting the horizontal strand between stitches onto the left needle and knitting into the front of this strand.

On the left edge, the increase is an M1L — which means “Make 1 Left” — a left-slanting increase. It is made by inserting the left needle from the front and lifting the horizontal strand between stitches onto the left needle and knitting into the back of this strand.

M1 increases are tighter and there is no purl bump on the front of the knitting.

Swatch 6 - Lifted Increases

Swatch #6 - Lifted Increases

Swatch 6 demonstrates the Lifted or Raised Increase. This is the most invisible of increases — and was an increase I had never used before, so the entire swatch was a learning experience.

Again, I knit a right-slanting increase on the right edge. This increase is done by lifting the stitch below the stitch on the left needle and knitting it.

The left-slanting increase on the left edge of the swatch gave me the most difficulty. I had to search out several different pictures of it in my references before I figured it out. The left-slanting lifted increase is done by lifting the stitch below the stitch just knitted on the right needle and then knitting it.

The best pictures and explanations I found of this increase, as well as the others, were in an online article at Knitty.com, entitled “Techniques with “Theresa – Increases”.

So, these three swatches improved my technique when knitting increases and I learned a method of increasing that I had never used before. Check out the article on Knitty.com if you want to explore these methods.

Related Post

A Color Slip Stitch Pattern: Waffle CheckA Color Slip Stitch Pattern: Waffle Check

The cardigan for my GS was done using three-colors in a very easy slip stitch pattern, which I discovered is the “Waffle Check” pattern in Barbara G. Walker”s A Treasury of Knitting Patterns. It’s the Waffle Check Variation, which only has 4 rows. It creates a lovely nubby color pattern and is based on garter stitch – so it does not curl on the edges.

Waffle Check Slip Stitch Pattern

The pattern is done over an odd number of stitches – it is a 2 stitch, plus 1 pattern. Instructions are for knitting flat. This is the basic 4 row pattern:

With color A—
Row 1: Knit.
Row 2: Knit

With color B –
Row 3: K1, *sl 1 wyib, K1; rep from * .
Row 4: K1, * sl 1 wyif, K1; rep from *

To make the three-color pattern used in my GS’s cardigan – you alternate knitting rows 3 & 4 in two different colors. And the color changes could go on to many different colors if you wished – a good way to use up some leftover yarn, perhaps?

Now, I am currently working on knitting a hat to go with GS’s sweater using the Waffle Check pattern and the same colors. Because I am knitting this in the round, instead of flat, I have modified the above pattern as follows:

With color A—
Row 1: Knit.
Row 2: Purl

With color B –
Row 3: *K1, sl 1 wyib; rep from * .
Row 4: *P1, sl1 wyif; rep from *.

And because I don’t want two knit stitches together at the join, this is done over an even number of stitches. I’ll post the end result when I’m finished.

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Cast On MethodsCast On Methods

This is the first post about Cast Ons. There have been several books written about different cast on methods as well as many chapters in general knitting references and YouTube videos. What I know now as a long time, more experienced knitter is that there a lots and lots of different ways to accomplish the task of putting the first stitches on your needles so that you can begin to knit. But when I first started knitting, I only knew one way to cast on. That’s because, as I believe is the case for most beginners, I was only taught one way to cast on. And I suspect that my knitting teacher taught me that cast on because it was the method that she knew.

While visiting my older sister, I learned to knit from a woman who sold yarn kits and gave knitting lessons in her apartment. So, my first knitting project was a slipper pattern kit that came with the yarn, a set of needles and an easy beginner level pattern. I think I had maybe two lessons from her and I was off to knit on my own. My teacher taught me the “Knitted Cast On” method. I used this method for a long time before discovering another cast on method – the “Backwards Loop (or E-wrap)” cast on.

The first time I encountered the notion that there were other ways to cast on was when I was knitting my very first sweater and I ran into an issue and needed some help with my project. Now, I lived in a very small town and there weren’t many people who knew how to knit. My mother located a neighbor who did and was willing to help me, so I went over to her house with my sweater. The neighbor did help me get my problem fixed – but what I remember most clearly about this session was what she said about my cast on: “Oh, you cast on wrong.”

My 11 year old self didn’t comment on that statement, but I was doing a slow burn because “I DID Cast on the right way.” I had used the knitted cast on that I knew. A lot of time passed between this incident and my learning that there are many ways to accomplish the same thing in knitting. And – I am still learning different ways to cast on!

So, in this series of posts about cast ons, I will discuss the cast ons that I currently know how to do and when and with what projects I use them. Since it was the first one I learned, I’m starting with the Knitted Cast On.

The knitted cast on is an easy cast on to learn as a beginner. Essentially, you create your first stitch on your needle by making a slip knot, placing it on the needle and start the cast on by knitting  a stitch through the loop using your other needle. Once you have the stitch on the right hand needle, you slip it back onto the left hand needle and tighten it up a little, then knit into that stitch and repeat the process until you have  the desired number of stitches.

Where I use this cast on:

  • When I want a fairly firm , yet somewhat stretchy edge: project like scarves, some shawls, blankets
  • Casting on for underarm stitches or thumb gussets in gloves or mittens

Here’s a YouTube video on this cast on: Knitting Help – Knitted Cast On

Next Post: e-Wrap (Backwards Loop) and Cable Cast On Methods

Socks for CharlotteSocks for Charlotte

Charlotte's Baby SocksI knit two little pairs of socks for Charlotte shortly after she was born. In fact, while I was visiting at the hospital, my DS traced one of Charlotte’s footprints so that I could take it home a make a pair of socks for her little feet.

Her little foot measured 3 inches from the tip of her big toe to her heel. I used some sock yarn I had on hand in a variegated shades of pink and a size US 1 (2.25 mm) 32 inch long circular. The socks were knit using Magic Loop, two at a time. I knit them from the cuff down. These little socks knit up quickly and I made a second pair using another skein of yarn that was a light pink color. Unfortunately, I forgot to take a picture of the second pair. DIL reported that these socks stayed on her feet when most do not.

I wrote up the pattern for these socks. Each pair takes only 10 g of sock yarn, so it would be a great way to use up leftover yarn from your bigger sock knitting projects. 🙂
Here is the link to the pattern: Newborn Size Socks