Stitch Pattern: Zig Zag Eyelet Lace

The Zig Zag Eyelet pattern was used in Dishcloth #8. This is an easy eyelet pattern made by using yarn overs in combination with left-slanting and right-slanting decreases to create the “zig zag”.

Zig Zag Eyelet Lace Pattern

This pattern is a multiple of 11 stitches plus 2 done over 12 rows.

Row 1: (Wrong Side) and all wrong side rows – Purl.
Row 2: K6, *YO, SSK, K9. Repeat from *, end last repeat K5.
Row 4: K7, *YO, SSK, K9. Repeat from *, end last repeat K4.
Row 6: K3, *K2Tog, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K4. Repeat from *, end last repeat K3.
Row 8: *K2, K2Tog, YO, K5, YO, SSK. Repeat from *, end K2.
Row 10: K1, *K2Tog, YO, K9. Repeat from *, end K1.
Row 12: *K2Tog, YO, K9. Repeat from *, end K2.

Reference: Barbara G. Walker, A Treasury of Knitting Patterns

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Oh! More Yarn!Oh! More Yarn!

During my recent trip to New England, I visited a couple of yarn shops in Boston, MA. And, of course, I bought yarn in each of them!

CascadeHeritage2
At Wolcott & Co. in Harvard Square, I purchased two beautiful hanks of Heritage Sock yarn (Cascade Yarns). I plan to use this soft superwash merino yarn for a scarf for my daughter’s roommate.

MindsEyeYarns1
At Mind’s Eye in Porter Square, I purchased a lovely skein of undyed handspun alpaca yarn and 3 balls of Online Linie 2 Supersocke Silk yarn. The alpaca was a stash purchase and will wait for the right project to find it. The sock yarn will be used for a scarf for my daughter (she picked it out).

BabyUll_1
I was still trying to decide what pattern and what yarn to use for the baby sweater I want to make for my new grandson due in January. After knitting the baby blanket, I decided not to use the same yarn for the sweater – so off I went to Personal Threads, one of the local yarn shops here in Omaha. There I found what I was looking for – I ended up buying Dale of Norway Baby Ull in three colors in sufficient quantity to knit a cardigan sweater and a romper to match! Oh, and I bought the pattern as well.

FO: Hermione’s Every Day SocksFO: Hermione’s Every Day Socks


I am happy to report that I have finished this pair of socks. This pair of socks has been very patient with me. You see, this is the pair of socks that has spent much time sitting in my car and waiting for me to knit on them at odd moments. I have occasionally taken them into my office and worked on them over the lunch hour. I have also taken them to my knitting guild meet-ups whenever I have forgotten to take any knitting with me in the morning. It was just one of those projects that I would pick up at different times, with no particular need to finish at a particular time or date.

Hermione's Every Day Socks on footHermione's Every Day Socks -- view of heel

The pattern, Hermione’s Every Day Socks is a free download on Ravelry. It’s a very popular pattern both on Ravelry and within my knitting guild. There are several things I like about this sock pattern: 1) It’s a very basic sock pattern with a nice heel; 2) the pattern is a simple 4 stitch, 4 row pattern that you can easily memorize — makes for an easy knit; 3) the toe-shaping is not too angular or pointy. Details: Yarn: Knit Picks Stroll, colorway: Duchess Heather. Needles: U.S. 2 (2.25 mm) Gauge: 6 spi.

Stitch Patterns – Three Examples of RibbingStitch Patterns – Three Examples of Ribbing

3Ribbings

All ribbing is a combination of knit and purl stitches across a row.  When you knit back on the next row, you knit the stitches as the face you, that is, knit the knit stitches and purl the purl stitches. The knit stitches form a ridge (or rib) and the purl stitches form a valley.  Ribbing is essentially a reversible fabric.  Ribbing is elastic crosswise and will stretch lengthwise and is most often used for sweater neckbands and bottoms and the cuff of socks.   Ribbing also “pulls in” naturally, so it will effect the shape of your garment.

One-By-One (1×1) Ribbing:

1x1Ribbing

This is knitted exactly as it says.  Knit 1 stitch, purl 1 stitch across the row.  (Remember to move your yarn from back to front as you knit and purl.)  If you are knitting this ribbing flat for a garment, you should be knitting an odd number of stitches, so that when the garment is seamed together the ribbing will appear to be continuous.   If you are knitting in the round, you should always have an even number of stitches.   This ribbing is the most elastic of ribbings.  It tends to look more loosely knit than stockinette stitch, and because it is so elastic, most patterns have you knit your ribbing on needles that are a size or two smaller than the body of the pattern.

Two-By-Two (2×2) Ribbing:

2x2Ribbing

This ribbing is made by K2, P2 across the row.  It is a multiple of 4 stitches, so when knitting a flat piece to be joined with another, you should be knitting a multiple of 4 plus 1 stitch so that the pieces will weave together correctly.  For knitting in the round, you would knit over a multiple of 4 stitches.  This is a popular ribbing and it works well for sock cuffs, but it is not as elastic as the 1×1 ribbing.

Three-By-One (3×1) Ribbing:

3x1Ribbing

This ribbing is also a multiple of 4 stitches:  K3, P1 across.  The rules for 2×2 ribbing also apply to this ribbing.  As you can see in the picture, this produces a wide rib with an almost invisible valley.  I have seen this ribbing used in sock patterns and it does give the socks and attractive looking cuff.

Other Ribbing Patterns: There are many other variations of ribbing, including Cabled Ribbing, Four-By-Two Ribbing, and Six-by-Three Ribbing.   I will include an example of Cabled Ribbing in a latter post on Cable Stitch Patterns.

Note: For information about tension issues with ribbing, see my post: Master Knitter Level I – Swatches # 1, 2, & 3.