Fisherman’s Rib Stitch

September 14, 2020| LindyBeir| 0 Comment | 8:00 am

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I have just added Fisherman’s Rib to my Stitch Library. This is an interesting rib pattern that uses “knit 1 below (k1b). K1b is also used in the Bee Stitch and if you want more information on it, here are links to that information.

Post on Bee Stitch and Knit 1 Below

Bee Stitch Pattern

This ribbing pattern results in a fluffy, soft and warm ribbing that is similar to the brioche rib stitch. In fact, while researching Fisherman’s Rib, I found several places where it is described as a variation in the brioche technique. Nancy Marchand, author of Knitting Brioche, states:

“In the Netherlands, both brioche stitch and Fisherman’s Rib are called patentsteek. The method of working the stitch is different but the end result is the same.”

The main difference between the brioche stitch and fisherman’s rib is that you use yarnovers combined with slipped stitches to form the fabric in brioche and you use k1b to create fisherman’s rib. There are several different ways to make the Fisherman’s Rib stitch and I have included these in my Fisherman’s Rib Stitch instructions.

I have used fisherman’s rib to make several lovely warm hats. It would work well for a warm scarf or a cowl as well. This stitch pattern will use approximately 30% more yarn than regular 1 X 1 ribbing and should be done on needles that are one to two sizes smaller than what you would normally use for the yarn you select.

There isn’t a lot of information on how to decrease or increase when doing fisherman’s rib, and it took me awhile to find ones that worked well for my hats. I will share that information in my upcoming posts.

Stitch Patterns – Three Examples of RibbingStitch Patterns – Three Examples of Ribbing

August 7, 2009| Lindy| 0 Comment| 9:30 am

3Ribbings

All ribbing is a combination of knit and purl stitches across a row. When you knit back on the next row, you knit the stitches as the face you, that is, knit the knit stitches and purl the purl stitches. The knit stitches form a ridge (or rib) and the purl stitches form a valley. Ribbing is essentially a reversible fabric. Ribbing is elastic crosswise and will stretch lengthwise and is most often used for sweater neckbands and bottoms and the cuff of socks. Ribbing also “pulls in” naturally, so it will effect the shape of your garment.

One-By-One (1×1) Ribbing:

This is knitted exactly as it says. Knit 1 stitch, purl 1 stitch across the row. (Remember to move your yarn from back to front as you knit and purl.) If you are knitting this ribbing flat for a garment, you should be knitting an odd number of stitches, so that when the garment is seamed together the ribbing will appear to be continuous. If you are knitting in the round, you should always have an even number of stitches. This ribbing is the most elastic of ribbings. It tends to look more loosely knit than stockinette stitch, and because it is so elastic, most patterns have you knit your ribbing on needles that are a size or two smaller than the body of the pattern.

Two-By-Two (2×2) Ribbing:

2x2Ribbing

This ribbing is made by K2, P2 across the row. It is a multiple of 4 stitches, so when knitting a flat piece to be joined with another, you should be knitting a multiple of 4 plus 1 stitch so that the pieces will weave together correctly. For knitting in the round, you would knit over a multiple of 4 stitches. This is a popular ribbing and it works well for sock cuffs, but it is not as elastic as the 1×1 ribbing.

Three-By-One (3×1) Ribbing:

3x1Ribbing

This ribbing is also a multiple of 4 stitches: K3, P1 across. The rules for 2×2 ribbing also apply to this ribbing. As you can see in the picture, this produces a wide rib with an almost invisible valley. I have seen this ribbing used in sock patterns and it does give the socks and attractive looking cuff.

Other Ribbing Patterns: There are many other variations of ribbing, including Cabled Ribbing, Four-By-Two Ribbing, and Six-by-Three Ribbing. I will include an example of Cabled Ribbing in a latter post on Cable Stitch Patterns.

Note: For information about tension issues with ribbing, see my post: Master Knitter Level I – Swatches # 1, 2, & 3.

Long Tail Cast OnLong Tail Cast On

March 9, 2021| LindyBeir| 0 Comment| 10:06 am

The Long-Tail Cast On is one of the most common and popular cast ons. It is an all purpose cast on that gives an attractive and elastic edge and works in almost every type of project. Because of its structure, this cast on creates the first row of your knitting – which is usually considered the wrong side of the work for stockinette stitch.

As the name implies it starts with a long tail – which can be a challenge for a knitter to figure out how long to make the tail before you start making stitches on your needle. A general rule of thumb for this length is 3 times the length you need to form the number of stitches to cast on. Some knitters wrap the yarn around the needle the number of times that equals the number of stitches. I’ve used both methods and both work fairly well.

The cast on starts with a slip stitch (some knitters omit this step). You then form a “slingshot” by holding the needle in your right hand and using the thumb and forefinger of your left hand so that one of the two strands wraps around the thumb and the other wraps around the forefinger, forming a “Y”. The tail strand should go over the thumb and the working yarn should go over the forefinger.

To form a new stitch, put the needle under and into the loop on the thumb, then go over the yarn on the forefinger and bring the strand through the thumb loop. Drop the yarn off the thumb and gently tighten the loop on the needle. Repeat until you have the desired number of stitches.

There are several variations of this cast on. I have included a link for the Alternating Long Tail Cast on, which provides a way to alternate knit and purl stitches for a ribbing and gives a moderately elastic edge.

Everything About the Long-Tail Cast On

Long-Tail Cast On in Pattern – Alternating Long-Tail CO

Finished SocksFinished Socks

August 31, 2009| Lindy| 3 Comments| 5:04 pm

Knitted striped socks

I finished my striped socks yesterday morning. I am pleased with how they turned out. I used a self-striping yarn from Patons Yarns and it was fascinating to see the stripes evolve as the socks knit up.

I did not really use a pattern for these socks. There are literally thousands of free sock patterns available on the internet, but you really don’t need them if you understand the basics of knitting socks. I started with a gauge swatch and used my foot measurements to determine the number of stitches I needed. The “how to” of this seems to be enough for a separate post, so I will place that in my queue for future topics.

I choose to do a picot hem at the top of the cuff, a 3 by 1 rib for the cuff and instep, a slipped stitched heel flap with a square heel turn. My mentors for these socks were Nancy Bush – I consulted her book “Knitting on the Road” for advice on the square heel and Cat Bordhi, whose book “Socks Soar on Two Circular Needles” contains a wealth of information on how to knit socks.

Knitting socks on two circular needles

I used the two socks on two circular needles for this pair of socks. I prefer to knit socks two at a time, because when you’ve finished, you have a pair of socks and don’t have to go back and knit that second sock. You can knit socks two at a time using either two circulars – as shown here in my photo – Or you can use the magic loop technique. I started another pair of socks last night using this technique – so I’ll post about them later.