As I have been knitting the different dishcloth patterns in my Summer Knitting project, it occurred to me that it might be a good idea to write a post in this blog about how to do some of the textured stitch patterns used in knitting the dishcloths. So, I am starting with the Bee Stitch.
The Bee Stitch is an easy textured stitch pattern and it produces an interesting textured fabric. It is a variation of the garter stitch and the edges do not roll. I think it would make a nice textured scarf or baby afghan. It certainly made a nice dishcloth.
The Bee Stitch is a multiple of 2 stitches plus 1 over 4 rows. It is made by “knitting 1 below (K1b)” and you need to have an odd number of stitches.
Row 1: Knit
Row 2: (Right Side): *(K1, K1b); Repeat from * across to last stitch K1.
Row 3: Knit
Row 4: *(K1b, K1); repeat from * across to last stitch, K1b.
Repeat these 4 rows for desired length of fabric. This 4 row repeat creates a diagonal patterning.
To “Knit 1 Below” , you put the tip of your needle through the center of the stitch below the stitch on the needle and slip off both strands at the same time. Tip – make certain that you are going through the center of the stitch below and can see the two strands of yarn when pulling the yarn through the stitch.
Here is a link to a YouTube video demonstrating “Knit 1 Below”: Knitting Demo Video.
Note: New link as of 10.9.2016.
References:
Kitchen Bright Dishcloths, Leisure Arts
Knitting on the Net (www.knittingonthenet.com)
20 thoughts on “Stitch Patterns: The Bee Stitch and Knitting 1 Below”
Wow I like the texture that stitch seems to have. I’ll have to try it out sometime!
I will be there tonight with my shawl.
I couldn’t view the video, but I am not sure I understand. Does the K1b increase the # of stitches? Do you pull it up to knit with your regular stitch?
Thank you! This looks plush, and I’d like to try to work the stitch into boot cuffs.
Cheers, Avis
The K1b does not increase the number of stitches. When you “knit one below” you go into the stitch loop below the stitch on the needle and knit it like a regular knit stitch — you simply pull it off along with the stitch loop on the needle.
I knit a lot for newborns and was looking for a simple pattern with a chunky look…Thank you very much and do keep posting.
This deep texture, with lots of warmth-trapping air pockets, will be great for winter scarves!
k1b means knit one through back of stitch. I hope that makes sense.
I did some research on this — I only found one reference that stated that k1b may mean “knit 1 through the back loop”, but the reference also said that k1b may also mean “knit one below”. Three other references all gave k1b as “knit one below”.
“knit one through back of stitch” is often abbreviated as kb or kbtl.
In the case of the Bee Stitch pattern — k1b definitely means “knit one below” NOT “knit one through back of stitch”. Readers — please read the explanation of how to do the “knit one below” — if you knit through the back of the stitch and not below — your Bee Stitch will not be correct.
Doing a stitch now called honeycomb brioche it looks very similar
I cannot view the You Tube video
I also cannot access the video, Not sure how to make this pattern even though it looks very simple.
in this pattern, “k1b” means knit one below. In other patterns it may mean knit one through back of loop. Always read the abbreviation instructions to avoid confusion.
The way I understand this stitch is: When you come up through stitch below, you wrap yarn around the right-hand needle in back (like you normally do when knitting a stitch) and then go through the stitch on left-hand needle and take it off. Please correct me if I’m wrong…..
Thanks i would love to try this.
This was the best of all the explanations for the b-stitch that I have seen. Thank you–I have a pattern that I want to make which has row s2 and 4 doing a knit-pearl pattern and doing a b-stitch under a pearl is possible but much harder than thr knit stitch so I have been struggling with that. Now when i knit the rows between the knit under is a breeze. So I’m really happy to have found your help.
Thanks a bunch.
Doris Nixon
LOVE THS BEE STITCH BUT YOU SAY TO CLICK ON VIDEO ON HOW TO DO THERE IS NO VIDEO ON YOUR SITE NOTHING COMES UP
COULD YOU EMAIL ME
I like the name Bee Stitch. I’ve been doing this pattern for many years and called it, Honeycomb or Alternating Fisherman’s Rib in the U.K. If you don’t alternate the k1b, it is then Fisherman’s Rib.
Knitting through back loop is usually abbreviated as. K1tbl.
Thanks for letting me know. It appears that this video is no longer available on YouTube.
I love this stitch but what kind of projects can I make besides a square or rectangle?
It took me a good bit of time to decide if I thought it was necessary to knit swatches in the round if I was knitting an item in the round rather than flat. The practice of knitting sweaters flat in pieces that are sewn together versus knitting sweaters in the round is, in itself, a whole topic with proponents for each practice. I may take this topic up at a later time, but for now I will focus on knitting a swatch in the round.
First, there are many knitters and designers who only use gauge swatches knit flat to determine their stitch gauge even if the pattern is knit in the round, and second, most patterns do not state how the gauge swatch was done. All you see in the pattern is the gauge statement.
Do you know if your gauge is the same if you knit in the round as when you knit flat? There’s a good chance that it’s not. As I’ve said before, gauge is a measure of how an individual knitter knits.
Think about how you knit when you knit in the round. One of the biggest differences is that you only knit on the right side of the fabric when you knit in the round. Using stockinette stitch as an example: When you knit flat, you knit one row (right side) and then turn your work and purl the next (wrong side). When you knit in the round, you join the stitches to make a circle and then knit every round.
Now, if you are one of the many knitters whose purls are looser than their knits, there is going to be a difference in tension between something you knit flat and something you knit in the round. Plus, you may modify your technique for knitting when knitting in round from when you knit flat. If you use straight needles when knitting flat, then switch to using circular needles or double point needles (dpns) to knit circular – your gauge may be significantly different. This is why I have come to the conclusion that it is good practice to swatch in the round when planning a project that will be knit in the round.
So how does one knit a swatch in the round? The first method is to cast on a enough stitches to give you a knitted tube that will be at least 4+ inches when laid flat. This could be the start of a sock or a hat. (Elizabeth Zimmerman said that “a hat makes a good swatch”.) Once you have a tube knitted of sufficient length for a good measurement, you treat this swatch the same way you would if your swatch that was knitted flat – i.e. measure, block, re-measure.
The second method goes by a couple of different names: “Speed Swatch” and “Circular Swatch with Floats” are two that I have found in my research. In this method, you use a circular needle and cast on the same number of stitches you would if you were knitting flat. But instead of knitting a row and then turning the swatch and knitting back to the end of the row, you slide your stitches to the needle on the opposite end and strand the working yarn loosely across the back and start knitting the next row. You keep repeating this process until you have a long enough swatch for good measurements. See pictures below:
Front of Swatch ITR — Knit with US 8 and Us 7 Needles
Back of Swatch ITR
Once you have the swatch completed, you treat it the same way as any swatch – measure unblocked, block, re-measure. A note about measuring this swatch: Some sources suggest that it is easier to measure this swatch after cutting the loose strands so that the swatch will lay flat. Others simply say to measure the swatch by laying it as flat as you can. Logically, you are not going to want to cut the strands if you plan to reuse the yarn in the swatch. I’ve tried both ways and did not find a significant difference in measurements. Here are pictures of the swatch above after I blocked it and cut the floats to take the measurements:
So if you plan to knit a sweater in the round, please do your swatch in the round.
If you would like to see a video on this technique, here are three helpful ones:
Well, my Summer knitting project of a dozen dishcloths has now drifted into Fall. I completed Dishcloth #7 and #8 before Summer ended and then got busy with other projects and just left my needles and yarn waiting for me to come back and knit some more. So, I started Dishcloth # 9 on Sunday and finished it up today. Hopefully, I will finish the last three dishcloths before the end of the Fall season. Here are the completed projects:
Dishcloth #7 — Valentine Hearts
Pattern from Leisure Arts “Knitting Kitchen Brights Dishcloths” brochure. Yarn: Peaches & Cream Cotton, color Teal. This is a reverse stockinette stitch pattern on a stockinette stitch background that resembles a cut-out of hearts that I made when I was a child. It’s an easy knit pattern over 20 rows.
Dishcloth #8 — Zigzag Eyelet
Pattern from Leisure Arts “Knitting Kitchen Brights Dishcloths” brochure. Yarn: Lion Brand Kitchen Cotton, color Natural. Lovely little lace pattern done over a multiple of 11 stitches plus 2 and 12 rows.
Dishcloth #9 — Climbing Lattice
Pattern from Leisure Arts “Knitting Kitchen Brights Dishcloths” brochure. Yarn: Sugar’n Cream, color Cool Breeze Ombre. This is an interesting lace pattern that combines left twists with a four stitch eyelet pattern. I was getting tired of solid color yarns, so I went with this ombre — I really like the way it knitted up.
I have decided to blog about various stitch patterns from time to time. So I am starting with the time honored basics: the garter stitch, the stockinette stitch and the reverse stockinette stitch.
This discussion assumes you know how to do a knit stitch and a purl stitch. If you are new to knitting and are not familiar with these two stitches, click on this link: http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/knit-stitch.
Garter Stitch: this stitch pattern is made by knitting every row, turning your knitting at the end of each row. (You would get the same effect if you purled every row – but most knitters prefer to knit every row). If you want to knit garter stitch “in the round”, you would knit one row and then purl one row – so most patterns using garter stitch are for flat pieces rather than circular knit pieces. The pattern produces a knitted fabric with ridges on each side that is essentially reversible – it looks very much the same on the right side as the wrong side. It takes two rows to make 1 ridge. The garter stitch is great for borders because it will not curl and lays flat once knitted. Many afghan and baby blanket patterns have a garter stitch border and it is often used as the basis for wash clothes and placemats.
Stockinette Stitch: this stitch pattern is the most commonly used knitted fabric. This stitch pattern produces a fabric with flat “V” shaped stitches on the right side and bumpy stitches on the wrong side. It is also known as flat knitting, tricot or jersey knit. Stockinette stitch consists of knitting one row, turning your work and purling one row if you are knitting a flat piece. If you are knitting in the round, you knit every row. Stockinette stitch fabric curls on the edges and at the top and bottom – it makes a good fabric for the body of a garment, but usually requires another stitch pattern for edging and or borders. It also stretches lengthwise when worn.
Reverse Stockinette Stitch: this is exactly what it sounds like – it is simply stockinette stitch fabric used with the purl side as the right side. It has all the properties of the stockinette stitch, but in addition, it will also stretch widthwise. You can see how the 3 stitches differ in the picture below:
If you look at the pictures of my teddy bear baby blanket – you will see how the teddy bear is formed by using the stockinette and reverse stockinette stitches together to form the pattern. This is a good example of how they can be combined to form textured patterning. Aran knitting patterns often combine stockinette, reverse stockinette and garter stitches as part of the textural patterning. Again, here are examples where the stitching is actually very straightforward and easy – but produces a fabric that looks complex because of the wonderful textures.
Wow I like the texture that stitch seems to have. I’ll have to try it out sometime!
I will be there tonight with my shawl.
I couldn’t view the video, but I am not sure I understand. Does the K1b increase the # of stitches? Do you pull it up to knit with your regular stitch?
Thank you! This looks plush, and I’d like to try to work the stitch into boot cuffs.
Cheers, Avis
The K1b does not increase the number of stitches. When you “knit one below” you go into the stitch loop below the stitch on the needle and knit it like a regular knit stitch — you simply pull it off along with the stitch loop on the needle.
I knit a lot for newborns and was looking for a simple pattern with a chunky look…Thank you very much and do keep posting.
This deep texture, with lots of warmth-trapping air pockets, will be great for winter scarves!
k1b means knit one through back of stitch. I hope that makes sense.
I did some research on this — I only found one reference that stated that k1b may mean “knit 1 through the back loop”, but the reference also said that k1b may also mean “knit one below”. Three other references all gave k1b as “knit one below”.
“knit one through back of stitch” is often abbreviated as kb or kbtl.
In the case of the Bee Stitch pattern — k1b definitely means “knit one below” NOT “knit one through back of stitch”. Readers — please read the explanation of how to do the “knit one below” — if you knit through the back of the stitch and not below — your Bee Stitch will not be correct.
Doing a stitch now called honeycomb brioche it looks very similar
I cannot view the You Tube video
I also cannot access the video, Not sure how to make this pattern even though it looks very simple.
in this pattern, “k1b” means knit one below. In other patterns it may mean knit one through back of loop. Always read the abbreviation instructions to avoid confusion.
The way I understand this stitch is: When you come up through stitch below, you wrap yarn around the right-hand needle in back (like you normally do when knitting a stitch) and then go through the stitch on left-hand needle and take it off. Please correct me if I’m wrong…..
Thanks i would love to try this.
This was the best of all the explanations for the b-stitch that I have seen. Thank you–I have a pattern that I want to make which has row s2 and 4 doing a knit-pearl pattern and doing a b-stitch under a pearl is possible but much harder than thr knit stitch so I have been struggling with that. Now when i knit the rows between the knit under is a breeze. So I’m really happy to have found your help.
Thanks a bunch.
Doris Nixon
LOVE THS BEE STITCH BUT YOU SAY TO CLICK ON VIDEO ON HOW TO DO THERE IS NO VIDEO ON YOUR SITE NOTHING COMES UP
COULD YOU EMAIL ME
I like the name Bee Stitch. I’ve been doing this pattern for many years and called it, Honeycomb or Alternating Fisherman’s Rib in the U.K. If you don’t alternate the k1b, it is then Fisherman’s Rib.
Knitting through back loop is usually abbreviated as. K1tbl.
Thanks for letting me know. It appears that this video is no longer available on YouTube.
I love this stitch but what kind of projects can I make besides a square or rectangle?
The video is available here