WIP: The EZ Green Sweater

I have been knitting recreated Green Sweater from the pattern recreated by Sunday Holm from the original sweater knitted by Elizabeth Zimmerman. (Schoolhouse Press Pattern #13, Elizabeth Zimmermann’s Green Sweater). This sweater pattern has a charming history and you can read the story here: Channelling Elizabeth.

Now, I am a “sometimes knitter” when it comes to sweaters. I start them and I knit on them “sometimes” — for some reason, I tend to knit on my sweater projects in between other projects. This means that I take a long time to finish a sweater project once it’s started. So, I started this project over a year ago — and I knitted a portion of the lower body and then I set this project aside.

A couple of months ago, I took this project up again and knit on it quite a bit. It’s a very intriguing pattern. The sweater is knit in the round using steeks. Yes, I said steeks. Steeks are that technique that many of us knitters avoid — but one Elizabeth Z embraced and used extensively. I decided to do this sweater specifically because of the steeks — I figured it was time for me to master the use of steeks. In this pattern, there are four steeks. The first one is up the center front (the sweater is a cardigan), then there is a steek for each armhole/sleeve and the fourth one is the neckline. You basically cast-on extra stitches, in this case I cast on five for each steek, and knit them up with the sweater. Then you cut them apart in the middle. Yep — I said you cut them apart. That’s what’s scary about steeks.

Here are some pictures of this sweater in progress:
EZ Green Sweater, Center Front
This is the center front, showing the center 5 steek stitches and the beginning of the armholes for the sleeves.

EZ Green Sweater, Steeks before Cutting
This shows the sweater with all the steeks knitted, before they have been cut.

EZ Green Sweater, Steeks crocheted
I used the crocheted method for fastening the steek stitches on each side.

EZ Green Sweater, Center Steek CutEZ Green Sweater, All Steeks Cut
In these two pictures, you can see the steeks, all cut and awaiting further work.

I am now working on the first sleeve. I am about two-thirds done with it. The sleeve has a unique design, and I really like how it is knitting up. I’ll post more pictures of this sweater once I have the sleeves and the neckline knitted.

Some details: I am using Frog Tree 100% Merino Yarn in Colorway 909 Teal and using circular needles, size US 8 (5.0 mm).

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WIP: Progress report on the ClapotisWIP: Progress report on the Clapotis

The clapotis scarf is knitting up nicely. I am now about 3/4 done with the straight row section. So far I have dropped 9 stitches and now have 9 ladders of varying length running diagonally to the edges.

Clapotis - Straight Row Section

The straight row section is supposed to be complete after 12 repeats of the 12 row pattern. However, the instructions also say that if you want to make your scarf longer, you simply knit more repeats of the straight row section. So, I when I finish three more repeats, I will need to decide if the scarf will be long enough, or if I need to add some more length. The 12 row pattern for the straight rows is really fairly easy to knit and it doesn’t take too long to complete one repeat. I am thinking that I’d like this scarf to be a little longer than the 55 inches stated in the pattern, but will see.

The scarf is really soft and has a nice drape. So far, I’m happy with how it’s knitting up.

Things Learned from a SwatchThings Learned from a Swatch

It took me years to appreciate the value of doing a swatch before starting a knitting project. I cannot tell you how many poorly fitted sweaters I knit before I came to realize that it truly was worth the time and effort to swatch first.

I learned this when I bought my first knitting machine. You see, when you are using a knitting machine, you can’t even get started without doing that swatch – as you need it to tell you if you have your machine tension set up correctly. It only takes one frustrating experience with a too tight tension on the knitting machine to convince you of the necessity for doing a swatch or two.

Swatching also provides you as a knitter the freedom to become, as Elizabeth Zimmermann says, “The boss of your knitting”. If you know your gauge, and understand the basics of the design you are wanting to make – you are free to modify any pattern – or MAKE YOUR OWN.

So, I always swatch. This last weekend I did a swatch using the Baby Ull yarns that I purchased to knit a sweater and romper for my new grandson due the end of January. I had a couple of extra reasons for doing this swatch beyond determining what size needle I needed to obtain the stated pattern gauge. First, I wanted to try out the three color pattern for the sweater and get comfortable with it. Second, I wanted to see if I liked the color combinations of the yarns in the color pattern.

Swatch_Cardigan1 Here’s a picture of the swatch. I cast on 44 stitches so that I could have a 40 stitch area surrounded by a 2 stitch garter stitch edging. I started using US 2 (3.00 mm) needles and then switched to a smaller US 1 (2.50 mm) needle for the last part of the swatch. I did a section of garter stitch, then stockinette stitch, then the color pattern using the lighter aqua blue as the main color and then switched to using the darker teal blue as the main color. I finished the swatch by doing a section of sockinette stitch on the smaller needles, followed by a section of garter stitch.

Here’s what I learned from this swatch: 1) I need to use smaller needles than what is stated in the pattern in order to obtain gauge. This is important because I want this sweater to fit. 2) I like using the darker teal blue as the main color – I think the lighter aqua blue shows up better against it than the other way around. This is significant – because I bought 7 balls of the lighter aqua and only 1 ball of the darker teal. (I have now ordered enough teal to make the sweater, as my LYS did not have enough of it on hand…) 3) The 3 color pattern is fairly simple and easy to knit. I think it’s good to practice such things before starting off on a special project like this.

So to those readers who “hate to swatch”: do you see the value of what I did here? Swatching is a valuable technique that helps you be the “boss of your knitting”. Now go swatch!

Stitch Pattern: Elfin LaceStitch Pattern: Elfin Lace

The Elfin Lace pattern was used in Dishcloth #5 in my Summer Knitting project. This is an easy eyelet lace pattern made with a combination of yarn-overs and right and left leaning decreases.

Elfin Lace Pattern

The Elfin Lace pattern is a multiple of 8 stitches plus 9 done over 16 rows.

Row 1: (Wrong Side) and all wrong side rows – Purl.
Row 2: K2, *YO, SSK, K6. Repeat from *, end last repeat K5.
Row 4: K3, *YO, SSK, K3,K2tog, YO, K1. Repeat from *, end YO, SSK, K4.
Row 6: K4, *YO, SSK, K1, K2tog, YO, K3. Repeat from *, end YO, SSK, K3.
Row 8: K2, K2Tog, *YO, K5, YO, Slip 2 knitwise, K1, Pass 2 slipped stitches over. Repeat from *, end YO, K5.
Row 10: K6, *YO, SSK, K6. Repeat from *, end YO, SSK, K1.
Row 12: K4, K2tog, *YO, K1, YO, SSK, K3, K2Tog. Repeat from *, end YO, K3.
Row 14: K3, *K2Tog, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K1. Repeat from *, end K2Tog, YO, K4.
Row 16: K5, *YO, Slip 2 knitwise, K1, pass 2 slipped stitches over, YO, K5. Repeat from *, end YO, K2Tog, K2.

Repeat rows 1-16 for the desired pattern length.

Reference: Barbara G. Walker, A Treasury of Knitting Patterns