FO: Cardigan Sweater for My GS

I have finished the cardigan sweater I was knitting for my GS. Now, I started this project in October 2009, well ahead of this little boy’s anticipated arrival. I had always intended to knit it as a size 12 months — I just hadn’t intended for him to be 9 months old by the time I finished! Ah…best intentions, too much ambition …and too many other WIPs to distract me.

Actually, I knit the cardigan in about 3 months. I had started this project planning to knit both a romper and a cardigan to match. I had the romper about three-fourths complete when I decided that it wasn’t what I wanted for my GS. So I set it aside for a bit and then realized I better get busy knitting or the sweater would be too small before it was ever finished.

Here’s the little guy in the sweater:
GS wearing his cardigan

He’s a real cutie, isn’t he? Not that I’m a proud Grandma or anything like that…. 🙂

Brief run-down on the project details: Pattern was from a Dale of Norway pattern booklet, Nr. 203 “Baby Designs”. Yarn was Dale of Norway Baby Ull — colorways 4221 (red), 5735 (navy), 6435 (teal). The body is done in a three color, slipped stitch pattern, which I identified from Barbara G. Walker’s “A Treasury of Knitting Patterns” as the waffle weave. I will post about this pattern later.

Finished Cardigan for GS

Here’s a link to all the project details in my Ravelry projects: GS’s Cardigan.

1 thought on “FO: Cardigan Sweater for My GS”

Comments are closed.

Related Post

Troubles with TensionTroubles with Tension

The first three swatches for the Master Knitter Level I require you to knit 2 X 2 ribbing, 1 X 1 Ribbing, garter stitch, stockinette stitch and seed stitch. As I have been knitting the first two swatches for the Master Knitter Level I, I have discovered that my tension is not what I thought it was: I thought I knit fairly evenly– but as I looked at the examples from TKGA — I began to realize that my knitting tension is not the same when I knit as when I purl. This seems to be a common issue among those who are working on the Level I Master Knitter swatches.

I have tried several different things to correct this problem — but so far I am still not knitting as evenly as I want. I have discovered that my knitting is less even with bamboo needles than with metal needles. I have also determined that it is very important to tighten up my tension at the end of a row — especially on the last stitch, so that I get more even stitches on the edges of the swatch. However — I have yet to achieve the even stitches for ribbing that I’d like to have.

Did you know that tension in ribbing — that it is, tension differences between knit and purl stitches — can really make a difference in the way your ribbing appears? I’d never given this much thought — but it really does effect how the ribs in the ribbing are formed. I have read (very recently) that this more of a problem for English knitters than for Continental knitters — but that it happens with both styles. The problem is often due to the excess yarn used in forming the purl stitch. The next time you are switching between knit and purl stitches — pay attention to how you wrap the yarn for the purl stitch — you actually do use slightly more yarn when doing a purl.

I am still seeking solutions for my tension problems — I’ll post about how I resolve this.

Stitch Pattern: Elfin LaceStitch Pattern: Elfin Lace

The Elfin Lace pattern was used in Dishcloth #5 in my Summer Knitting project. This is an easy eyelet lace pattern made with a combination of yarn-overs and right and left leaning decreases.

Elfin Lace Pattern

The Elfin Lace pattern is a multiple of 8 stitches plus 9 done over 16 rows.

Row 1: (Wrong Side) and all wrong side rows – Purl.
Row 2: K2, *YO, SSK, K6. Repeat from *, end last repeat K5.
Row 4: K3, *YO, SSK, K3,K2tog, YO, K1. Repeat from *, end YO, SSK, K4.
Row 6: K4, *YO, SSK, K1, K2tog, YO, K3. Repeat from *, end YO, SSK, K3.
Row 8: K2, K2Tog, *YO, K5, YO, Slip 2 knitwise, K1, Pass 2 slipped stitches over. Repeat from *, end YO, K5.
Row 10: K6, *YO, SSK, K6. Repeat from *, end YO, SSK, K1.
Row 12: K4, K2tog, *YO, K1, YO, SSK, K3, K2Tog. Repeat from *, end YO, K3.
Row 14: K3, *K2Tog, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K1. Repeat from *, end K2Tog, YO, K4.
Row 16: K5, *YO, Slip 2 knitwise, K1, pass 2 slipped stitches over, YO, K5. Repeat from *, end YO, K2Tog, K2.

Repeat rows 1-16 for the desired pattern length.

Reference: Barbara G. Walker, A Treasury of Knitting Patterns