Tubular Cast Ons

There are several versions of tubular cast ons. All tubular cast ons give the appearance of a rolled edge. The basic Tubular Cast On starts with half the number of stitches needed. You cast on with waste yarn followed by 4 rows of stockinette stitch in your main color of yarn. Then you increase by picking up stitches from the first row of the main color knitting. This cast on has an elastic edge and is good for K1P1 ribbing used in socks, gloves, and hats.

The Provisional Tubular Cast On begins with the Provisional Cast On before starting the tubular rows. Starting with the Provisional Cast On eliminates having to pick up stitches. It can be used for both K1P1 and K2P2 ribbing and has a matching bind off (Tubular Bind Off).

The Yarnover Tubular Cast On starts with a Chained Cast On in half the number of stitches needed. Yarnovers are used to add the remaining stitches. This cast on is good for knitting in the round and works for both K1P1 and K2P2 ribbing. Most sources recommended using a smaller size needle to do this cast on and prevent flaring out.

The Italian Tubular Cast On is similar to the Provisional Cast On. It does not require the use of waste yarn. You begin this cast on with a long tail about four times the length of what you are casting on. As with the other tubular cast ons this one works well with K1P1 and K2P2 ribbing and matches the Tubular Bind Off.

Links for videos on these cast ons:

Tubular Cast On

Provisional Tubular Cast On

Yarnover Cast On

Italian Tubular Cast On(flat)

Italian Tubular Cast On (ITR)

Related Post

Helpful Swatch Part 5: Substituting One Yarn for AnotherHelpful Swatch Part 5: Substituting One Yarn for Another

Many times a knitter will select a pattern to knit only to discover that the yarn used in the pattern is either not available or there isn’t a sufficient quantity available for purchase or it costs more than what the budget allows. So, that leads to finding a reasonable substitute to use. I have seen many forum posts in Ravelry where knitters have had difficulty making a proper substitution.

The first step in substituting one yarn for another is to look for a yarn of similar fiber composition that has approximately the same weight and recommended gauge as the yarn listed in the pattern. By this, I mean if the yarn used in the pattern is worsted weight (size 4), it’s best to find another worsted weight yarn to use as the substitute. If you are purchasing from a local yarn shop, the staff may help you find a substitute. If shopping online, Yarnsub.com is a helpful website that can be used to guide your initial search. Another resource is Ravelry – if the pattern is available in the Patterns database, you can look at others’ projects to see what yarns have been used. Regardless, once you pick your substitute yarn – you’ll need to swatch to find your gauge before you cast on and begin knitting the pattern.

Question: “I’m not getting the same gauge with my substituted yarn as the gauge stated in the pattern – what do I do now?

Here are some options to consider:

  1. Change needle size and reknit the swatch to see if you can match the gauge. If you are getting more stitches than the stated gauge – go up one or two needle sizes. If you are getting fewer stitches than the stated gauge – go down one or two needle sizes. If you succeed in matching gauge with the change in needles and you like the fabric you are producing, then simply follow your pattern and knit with the size needle that helps you get gauge.
  2. If you still can’t get gauge after changing needle sizes, but you like the fabric you are getting, calculate the number of stitches you need to cast-on to match your chest measurement and check the pattern to see if there is a size that uses the same number of stitches. You may still need to make adjustments in shaping if your row gauge is different from the pattern.
  3. Use the pattern as a guide only – use the schematic plus any adjustments you need to make and then determine the stitch counts and rows needed to make the garment with your own gauge. (A good reference for this is Knitting Pattern Essentials by Sally Melville)

Here’s the next issue for substituting one yarn for another: Does the substitute have the same weight and yardage as the original yarn? If it does – you are in luck and can simply buy the same amount of yarn as what is given in the pattern for the size of the garment you want to knit. (Remember to buy an extra one for swatching.) However, in most cases there is a difference in yardage and/or weight between the substitute and the original yarn – which leads to the question: “How much of my substitute yarn do I need? This brings us back to the basic math I covered in my previous post: “To determine the number of skeins, balls or hanks of yarn you need: Divide the number of yards by the number of yards in the skein. Or divide the total number of grams by the number of grams of the skein.  Remember that you will want one extra skein for swatching. “

A Color Slip Stitch Pattern: Waffle CheckA Color Slip Stitch Pattern: Waffle Check

The cardigan for my GS was done using three-colors in a very easy slip stitch pattern, which I discovered is the “Waffle Check” pattern in Barbara G. Walker”s A Treasury of Knitting Patterns. It’s the Waffle Check Variation, which only has 4 rows. It creates a lovely nubby color pattern and is based on garter stitch – so it does not curl on the edges.

Waffle Check Slip Stitch Pattern

The pattern is done over an odd number of stitches – it is a 2 stitch, plus 1 pattern. Instructions are for knitting flat. This is the basic 4 row pattern:

With color A—
Row 1: Knit.
Row 2: Knit

With color B –
Row 3: K1, *sl 1 wyib, K1; rep from * .
Row 4: K1, * sl 1 wyif, K1; rep from *

To make the three-color pattern used in my GS’s cardigan – you alternate knitting rows 3 & 4 in two different colors. And the color changes could go on to many different colors if you wished – a good way to use up some leftover yarn, perhaps?

Now, I am currently working on knitting a hat to go with GS’s sweater using the Waffle Check pattern and the same colors. Because I am knitting this in the round, instead of flat, I have modified the above pattern as follows:

With color A—
Row 1: Knit.
Row 2: Purl

With color B –
Row 3: *K1, sl 1 wyib; rep from * .
Row 4: *P1, sl1 wyif; rep from *.

And because I don’t want two knit stitches together at the join, this is done over an even number of stitches. I’ll post the end result when I’m finished.

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Works in ProgressWorks in Progress

I have decided that I have too many projects in progress and absolutely cannot start anything else until I get at least three of them done: Not only do I have 5 knitting projects and 1 crochet project “in the works”, but have 3 more planned, plus a sewing project that must be completed in the next two weeks. I have always had the tendency to have several things going at once – but really, this is ridiculous!

Here are the knitting projects I must complete BEFORE starting anything else:

Knitted Bunny – ready for assembly.

Knitted Bunny

Knitted Bunny

Lace Scarf – this is a Christmas gift:

Lace Scarf WIP

Lace Scarf WIP

Cable Ribbon Socks – Guild Meet Up project.

Cable Rib Socks - knitting magic loop method

Cable Rib Socks - knitting magic loop method

Vintage Crochet Edging – just need to finish the write up on the pattern:

Vintage Crochet Edging -- WIP

Vintage Crochet Edging -- WIP

I plan to do the sewing project over the Labor Day Weekend and will post pictures when finished.