These three stitch patterns create an allover textured pattern using a combination of knit and purl stitches. As such, these three textured patterns are great for decorative borders. Between the USA and UK there is some confusion related to the Moss Stitch – I have seen references to the Moss Stitch which are exactly the same as what I know as a Seed Stitch here in the USA.
Seed Stitch (Moss Stitch):
This is one of my favorite patterns for borders with the stockinette stitch. It lies flat and does not roll or curl. It is reversible and I love it for front bands on cardigan sweaters.
This stitch pattern is a multiple of two and a repeat over two rows. The first row is the same as a 1 X 1 ribbing: K1, P1 across the row. On the following row, all stitches are worked the opposite of the way they face you – i.e. you purl the knit stitches and knit the purl stitches. Seed stitch tends to expand widthwise and is wider than the same number of stockinette stitches.
Irish Moss Stitch:
This stitch has a diagonal texture. It is a multiple of two stitches with a repeat over four rows. The first two rows are knit the same as 1 X 1 Ribbing: K1, P1 across the row. Then the next two rows are knit the opposite: P1, K1 across. You repeat these four rows to make the textured pattern.
Just like the Seed Stitch, the Irish Moss Stitch creates a reversible fabric that lies flat and does not roll or curl. The fabric will tend to expand crosswise and the stitches may “seat” themselves after washing. If you are using this pattern stitch as the main body of your garment, it is best to knit the garment to the actual measurements of the chest of the intended wearer before the first washing.
Double Moss Stitch (Double Seed Stitch, Box Stitch):
This stitch pattern is a multiple of four stitches repeated over four rows. The first two rows are the same as 2 X 2 Ribbing: K2, P2 across the row. On the next two rows, you do P2, K2 across. It has essentially the same properties as the Irish Moss Stitch. This pattern is wonderful for knitting textured scarves that do not roll or curl on the edges.
The knitted bunny is done. It turned out a little lopsided, but it’s rather cute.
Knitted Bunny on Teddy Bear Blanket
The lace scarf for my DIL is done. This is a lovely pattern. I especially like the three-stitch slipped stitch edging on this scarf. This is a technique I will keep in mind for future projects.
2025 was a year of focused effort toward completing the Master Hand Knitter certification program curated by The Knitting Guild Association (TKGA.org). TKGA is a group of highly experienced knitters who work to help others learn and improve their knitting through various correspondence courses, certification programs, online conferences, in-person conferences and online reference materials. They publish an online magazine, Cast On, quarterly. A yearly membership is $35 and is well worth the price – giving you access to a wide range of resources and expertise. The Master Hand Knitter certification program is a guided mastery learning program. One achieves mastery through a guided self-study process that includes improving various techniques through practice, learning to research and judge your work and applying new skills. You submit your work and it is reviewed by a group of Master Hand Knitters. You receive a written evaluation of your work along with suggestions on how to improve your work where it did not meet their standards for proficiency.
There are three levels in the program: Level 1 focuses on basic skills such as determining gauge, making increases and decreases, and knitting some basic stitch patterns. Level 2 focuses on finishing techniques. It covers different cast ons and bind offs and different methods for seaming and finishing. Level 3 focuses on designing knitwear and pattern writing. Includes work on advanced techniques such as double knitting, entrelac, brioche, slip stitch and mosaic patterns. Each level includes completing at least one project demonstrating the skills covered in the level.
This program is a journey – not a race. But it was, for me, a wonderful learning experience and a proud accomplishment. I achieved my certification as a Master Hand Knitter in August 2025.
I have covered the basics of how to make a Gauge Swatch and calculate your stitch and row gauge in my previous three posts. Today’s topic will cover some basic math to help you estimate the yardage that you need using your yarn, your needles, and your gauge to make a sweater.
Let’s say you want to make a sweater using yarn from your stash and you need to know if you have enough to make it. To make this estimate, you need the measurements for the sweater you want to make. If you are using a pattern, the finished measurements should be stated within the pattern – ideally on a schematic. Some patterns may only state the desired measurements within the text of the pattern and you may have to read through to find them. If you are making the sweater without using a pattern – you would use the measurements of the individual who will be wearing the sweater.
The image below shows a schematic for the back of a sweater of a drop sleeve sweater. The back is 28 inches long from the hem to the neck and it is 20 inches wide. Both the front and the back of this type of sweater are essentially rectangles.
Schematic of Back/Front of Sweater
The schematic for the sleeves of this sweater are shown below.
Schematic of Sleeve
At this point, you have the numbers you need to calculate the number of square inches of fabric that you need to make for this sweater. For the front and back, multiply the length by the width on the schematic and then multiply that number by 2. Using the numbers from my example above:
20 * 28 = 560 560*2 = 1120 square inches for front and back.
The sleeve is a trapezoid shape. The formula for the area of a trapezoid is:
[(b1+b2) * h] / 2
Where b1 is the width at the bottom of the sleeve(8”) and b2 is the width at the top of the sleeve(15”) and h is the length of the sleeve(18”). Using the numbers from the sleeve schematic, the area for one sleeve is 207 square inches. Since you need two sleeves, you then need to multiply the area of the sleeve by two. (414 square inches)
Now, here’s a short cut – if you place your sleeves next to each other so that the tops of the sleeves are parallel – you have a parallelogram. To get the area of this parallelogram you simply multiple the width(15”+ 8” = 23”) by the length(18”). Try it – you’ll get the same number as above.
Add the square inches for the front and back to the square inches for the sleeves and you have the total number of square inches of fabric in the sweater. Now that you know the total number of square inches of fabric you need, you will need to use the yardage and weight information of the yarn you want to use to estimate how many skeins or balls of yarn your sweater requires. The yardage per weight of the yarn will be found on the yarn label – see image below:
You will use the yards per gram value in the estimate for total yardage. Now you need to knit a swatch. The swatch should be in the same stitch pattern that you plan to use for the body of your sweater. This swatch does not need to be the same size as your gauge swatch, but it should be wide enough and long enough to get an accurate weight, length and width measurement. After you knit this swatch, you will measure its weight using a scale that measures to the nearest tenth (0.1) of a gram. Next measure the length and width of the swatch and multiply these values together. This gives you the number of square inches in your swatch. Now divide the number of grams by the number of square inches.(Do not round). You now know what 1 square inch of your yarn weighs. This is the number you need to calculate how much yardage you need for your sweater.
Example: My swatch measures 3.5 inches by 4.5 inches, which gives me 15.75 square inches. The swatch weighs 9.6 g. Dividing 9.6 by 15.76 gives me 0.622 g/square inch.
Here’s the final set of calculations:
Take the total number of square inches of fabric and multiply it by the number of grams per square inch. This gives you the total weight in grams for your sweater.
Total Number of Square Inches * grams/inch2 = Total grams of fabric
Total Grams/Square Inches = (1120 + 414) * 0.622 = 954.148 g
Now take the yards per gram value from the yarn label. (For example 218 yds/100grams). Divide the yds by the grams to get the number of yards in 1 gram of yarn. (For example: 218yards/100grams = 2.18 yards per gram.) Multiply the total number of grams of fabric by the number of yards per gram to get the total yardage for the sweater. Using the numbers from the examples above:
Yards per gram = 2.18 yds/g
Total Yards of Yarn = 954.148 * 2.18 = 2080 yds
To determine the number of skeins, balls or hanks of yarn you need: Divide the number of yards by the number of yards in the skein. Or divide the total number of grams by the number of grams of the skein. Remember that you will want one extra skein for swatching. (In my example, I would need 9.5 skeins, so I would want 11 skeins with one extra for swatching)
What to do if you don’t have the yarn label
To determine how many yards of yarn you have when you do not have the yarn label or any information, simply measure out 10 yards of your yarn and weigh it. Divide the weight by 10 and you have the weight for 1 yard of yarn. Now weigh the skeins/hanks of yarn and multiply by the weight of 1 yard. This will give you the number of yards for each skein/hank.
