Stitch Patterns – Seed Stitch, Irish Moss Stitch & Double Moss Stitch

August 14, 2009| Lindy| 0 Comment | 8:30 am

Categories:

These three stitch patterns create an allover textured pattern using a combination of knit and purl stitches. As such, these three textured patterns are great for decorative borders. Between the USA and UK there is some confusion related to the Moss Stitch – I have seen references to the Moss Stitch which are exactly the same as what I know as a Seed Stitch here in the USA.

Seed Stitch (Moss Stitch):
SeedStitch
This is one of my favorite patterns for borders with the stockinette stitch. It lies flat and does not roll or curl. It is reversible and I love it for front bands on cardigan sweaters.
This stitch pattern is a multiple of two and a repeat over two rows. The first row is the same as a 1 X 1 ribbing: K1, P1 across the row. On the following row, all stitches are worked the opposite of the way they face you – i.e. you purl the knit stitches and knit the purl stitches. Seed stitch tends to expand widthwise and is wider than the same number of stockinette stitches.

Irish Moss Stitch:
IrishMossStitch
This stitch has a diagonal texture. It is a multiple of two stitches with a repeat over four rows. The first two rows are knit the same as 1 X 1 Ribbing: K1, P1 across the row. Then the next two rows are knit the opposite: P1, K1 across. You repeat these four rows to make the textured pattern.

Just like the Seed Stitch, the Irish Moss Stitch creates a reversible fabric that lies flat and does not roll or curl. The fabric will tend to expand crosswise and the stitches may “seat” themselves after washing. If you are using this pattern stitch as the main body of your garment, it is best to knit the garment to the actual measurements of the chest of the intended wearer before the first washing.

Double Moss Stitch (Double Seed Stitch, Box Stitch):
DblMossStitc
This stitch pattern is a multiple of four stitches repeated over four rows. The first two rows are the same as 2 X 2 Ribbing: K2, P2 across the row. On the next two rows, you do P2, K2 across. It has essentially the same properties as the Irish Moss Stitch. This pattern is wonderful for knitting textured scarves that do not roll or curl on the edges.

Last FO of 2010: Dishcloths #10 – 12Last FO of 2010: Dishcloths #10 – 12

January 2, 2011| Lindy| 0 Comment| 5:11 pm

It’s been awhile since my last post. The month of December simply flew by with all the preparations for the Holidays and I just never found time to post. Now that the New Year’s Day holiday is over, I am hoping to get back to much more regular postings.

I finished dishcloth #12 just after Christmas. I had planned to get my dozen dishcloths done well before Christmas — but you know that saying about best laid plans? Other things just kept popping up and interfering with my knitting time. Ah well… at least I finished the last dishcloth before the end of the year. So here are the last three of the set of 12:

Dishcloth # 10 – Slanted Squares

Pattern from Leisure Arts “Knitting Kitchen Brights Dishcloths” brochure. Yarn: Peaches & Cream Cotton, color Teal. This is a textured pattern made up of combination of stockinette, reverse stockinette and seed stitch.

Dishcloth # 11 – Basic Diamonds

Pattern from Leisure Arts “Knitting Kitchen Brights Dishcloths” brochure. Yarn: Peaches & Cream Cotton, color Teal. Purl stitches are used to create the diamond patterning. The pattern is very similar to the “Diamond Brocade” pattern I used for my DD’s scarf last year. This pattern is based on 6 stitches and 6 rows, whereas the Diamond Brocade pattern is based upon 8 stitches and 8 rows.

Dishcloth # 12 – Shapely Diamond

Pattern from Leisure Arts “Knitting Kitchen Brights Dishcloths” brochure. Yarn: Peaches & Cream Cotton, color Lemon. This was a fun pattern to knit and it knit up fairly quickly. The pattern is based on 34 stitches knit over 59 rows.

Links to Dishcloths #1 through #9:
Dishcloths #1 — #3
Dishcloths #4 — #6
Dishcloths #7 — #9

Link to “Kitchen Bright Dishcloths” from Leisure Arts (2004).

Knitting Needle Sizes & ConfusionKnitting Needle Sizes & Confusion

September 6, 2009| Lindy| 0 Comments| 9:00 am

Knitting Needles sizes are fairly straightforward in the sizes that one uses for DK, worsted weight and bulky yarns. (Size US 4 and up). But it is a much different story when it comes to small diameter needles used to knit fingering, lace and other finer weight yarns. This can be very confusing – I just discovered that there is a significant variation in the sizing labels for some of these needles.

Let’s start with the standard “US” sizing – which uses a numerical designation for knitting needles, from “0000” up to 35 – with the needle diameter increasing as the numerical designation increases. Seems like a fairly straightforward system – until you run across US size 1 & 2 needles that are different diameters. If you never use a knitting needle smaller than US size 4 (which has a diameter of 3.5 mm), this will not be a problem for you. IF, however, you get into knitting socks and lace using much smaller diameter needles – it may cause you to pull out your hair.

Fortunately, most knitting needles sold today also come with their diameter size stated as well as their US size. What I have currently in my assortment of circular knitting needles are as follows: US Size 0 (2.00 mm); US Size 1 (2.25 mm), US Size 1 (2.50 mm), US Size 2 (2.75 mm), US Size 2 (3.00 mm). These needles have all been purchased in the last 10 years. I have seen patterns referencing size 1.5 needles, so I am guessing that the size 2 (2.75 mm) needle may also be a 1.5, but it’s difficult to tell for certain. Just a word of caution to those using patterns calling for these US sizes of needles – make certain your metric diameter matches the pattern (if it’s stated) and BE SURE to check your gauge!

I found two websites that have charts comparing the US sizing to the metric diameter:
http://www.fibergypsy.com/common/needles.shtml
http://www.lionbrand.com/cgi-bin/faq-search.cgi?store=/stores/eyarn&faqKey=97

Point to remember: Gauge is the measurement of the number of stitches per inch you get with a particular needle – this is more important than using the size of needle stated in a pattern. Always do a swatch for gauge!

Knitting Socks in Waiting AreaKnitting Socks in Waiting Area

August 26, 2009| Lindy| 0 Comments| 11:55 pm

Yesterday, I had the role of being supportive of my DH while he underwent some tests at our local hospital. (Nothing serious, just part of routine maintenance for the over 55 crowd.)

Anyway, I decided to take along a pair of socks I am knitting as my “keep occupied” project for the time I would be sitting in the waiting area. I am doing cuff down, two at a time on 2 circular knitting needles. So I pulled out my knitting and started to knit away while I sipped on a cup of coffee. An older woman walked into the group of chairs where I was sitting — and pulled out her knitting!

She was knitting something on dpn’s in a pretty dark green yarn. For a time, we sat and knit without any conversation. Then, she put away her knitting and came over and sat next to me and chatted. (I think she was anxious about whomever she was waiting for, but she never really said.) I learned that she was working on a pair of mittens and she was very curious about the method I was using for knitting socks and my self-striping yarn. We exchanged bits of information about yarns and knitting and then she was called to go back with her family member while he/she recovered.

It’s interesting how knitting forms a link and an introduction for us. I know it made the time in the waiting room go by more quickly for me and I’d like to think it eased my companion’s anxiety a little and helped her time in the waiting room pass more pleasantly.

P.S. Started the socks so that I would have an easy knit project for the knitting guild meet ups. More on the guild in another post. I promise to post a picture of the socks when done.