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Stitch Patterns: The Bee Stitch and Knitting 1 Below

As I have been knitting the different dishcloth patterns in my Summer Knitting project, it occurred to me that it might be a good idea to write a post in this blog about how to do some of the textured stitch patterns used in knitting the dishcloths. So, I am starting with the Bee Stitch.

Bee Stitch

The Bee Stitch is an easy textured stitch pattern and it produces an interesting textured fabric. It is a variation of the garter stitch and the edges do not roll. I think it would make a nice textured scarf or baby afghan. It certainly made a nice dishcloth.

The Bee Stitch is a multiple of 2 stitches plus 1 over 4 rows. It is made by “knitting 1 below (K1b)” and you need to have an odd number of stitches.
Row 1: Knit
Row 2: (Right Side): *(K1, K1b); Repeat from * across to last stitch K1.
Row 3: Knit
Row 4: *(K1b, K1); repeat from * across to last stitch, K1b.
Repeat these 4 rows for desired length of fabric. This 4 row repeat creates a diagonal patterning.

To “Knit 1 Below” , you put the tip of your needle through the center of the stitch below the stitch on the needle and slip off both strands at the same time. Tip – make certain that you are going through the center of the stitch below and can see the two strands of yarn when pulling the yarn through the stitch.

Knit 1 below

Here is a link to a YouTube video demonstrating “Knit 1 Below”: Knitting Demo Video.
Note: New link as of 10.9.2016.

References:
Kitchen Bright Dishcloths, Leisure Arts
Knitting on the Net (www.knittingonthenet.com)

20 thoughts on “Stitch Patterns: The Bee Stitch and Knitting 1 Below”

  1. Wow I like the texture that stitch seems to have. I’ll have to try it out sometime!

    I will be there tonight with my shawl.

  2. I couldn’t view the video, but I am not sure I understand. Does the K1b increase the # of stitches? Do you pull it up to knit with your regular stitch?

  3. The K1b does not increase the number of stitches. When you “knit one below” you go into the stitch loop below the stitch on the needle and knit it like a regular knit stitch — you simply pull it off along with the stitch loop on the needle.

  4. I knit a lot for newborns and was looking for a simple pattern with a chunky look…Thank you very much and do keep posting.

  5. This deep texture, with lots of warmth-trapping air pockets, will be great for winter scarves!

  6. I did some research on this — I only found one reference that stated that k1b may mean “knit 1 through the back loop”, but the reference also said that k1b may also mean “knit one below”. Three other references all gave k1b as “knit one below”.

    “knit one through back of stitch” is often abbreviated as kb or kbtl.

    In the case of the Bee Stitch pattern — k1b definitely means “knit one below” NOT “knit one through back of stitch”. Readers — please read the explanation of how to do the “knit one below” — if you knit through the back of the stitch and not below — your Bee Stitch will not be correct.

  7. in this pattern, “k1b” means knit one below. In other patterns it may mean knit one through back of loop. Always read the abbreviation instructions to avoid confusion.

  8. The way I understand this stitch is: When you come up through stitch below, you wrap yarn around the right-hand needle in back (like you normally do when knitting a stitch) and then go through the stitch on left-hand needle and take it off. Please correct me if I’m wrong…..

  9. This was the best of all the explanations for the b-stitch that I have seen. Thank you–I have a pattern that I want to make which has row s2 and 4 doing a knit-pearl pattern and doing a b-stitch under a pearl is possible but much harder than thr knit stitch so I have been struggling with that. Now when i knit the rows between the knit under is a breeze. So I’m really happy to have found your help.
    Thanks a bunch.
    Doris Nixon

  10. LOVE THS BEE STITCH BUT YOU SAY TO CLICK ON VIDEO ON HOW TO DO THERE IS NO VIDEO ON YOUR SITE NOTHING COMES UP
    COULD YOU EMAIL ME

  11. I like the name Bee Stitch. I’ve been doing this pattern for many years and called it, Honeycomb or Alternating Fisherman’s Rib in the U.K. If you don’t alternate the k1b, it is then Fisherman’s Rib.

    Knitting through back loop is usually abbreviated as. K1tbl.

  12. I love this stitch but what kind of projects can I make besides a square or rectangle?

Comments are closed.

Related Post

Part 1: Freeing Yourself from a Written Pattern or How to Use the Yarn of Your ChoicePart 1: Freeing Yourself from a Written Pattern or How to Use the Yarn of Your Choice

In my last post, I discussed the issues related to trying to substitute one yarn for another and suggested at the end of my post that if you want to use a yarn of a different weight & gauge than what the pattern calls for – you can design your own custom sweater using the pattern as a guide.
Today, I will focus on the first of two approaches for doing just that. WARNING – you must be prepared to take measurements, do a proper gauge swatch and get out your calculator. Yes, we will be doing some math…

Approach #1 – Use EZ’s Percentage System.

Elizabeth Zimmerman published her “unvented” percentage system for designing sweaters in the Knitting Workshop and gave us many examples of how to use it in her other books. EZ was always someone who dealt with knitting in a pragmatic fashion and basically cut through all the fluff and gave clear explanations of basic concepts. I encourage you to read all of her books – but if you want the complete explanation of her percentage system — Knitting Workshop is the source.

I am describing EZ’s Percentage System for two basic sweater designs – the yoke sweater and the Raglan sleeve sweater. Both are knitted in the round. You need to take some basic body measurements:

Width around the chest (Chest Measurement) [CM] The Chest Measurement is the “Key Measurement” (100%) and the starting point.
Body length to Underarm (Underarm Measurement)
Sleeve length to Underarm (Sleeve Length)
You must know your stitch gauge or Stitches per Inch [SPI]

The math follows:
CM X SPI = # stitches needed for the body of the sweater.

For a Yoke Sweater the basic percentages of the above are:
Body = 100%
Wrist = 20%
Upper Arm = 33%
Underarm = 8%
Circumference of Shoulders = 133%
Neck = 40%

For a Raglan-Sleeve Style Sweater the basic percentages are:
Body = 100%
Wrist = 20%
Upper Arm = 33%
Neck = 40%

To calculate – multiply the total number of body stitches by the percentage.

I think you get the idea. If you want to try using EZ’s percentage system, I recommend you either borrow EZ’s Knitting Workshop from your library or a friend or purchase it.

Here’s a link that will take you to Amazon.com: Knitting Workshop

I have also created an Excel Spreadsheet that will make the calculations for you. You can download it here: EPS_Calculator Spreadsheet.

Next post, I will outline another approach to sweater design.

Oh! More Yarn!Oh! More Yarn!

During my recent trip to New England, I visited a couple of yarn shops in Boston, MA. And, of course, I bought yarn in each of them!

CascadeHeritage2
At Wolcott & Co. in Harvard Square, I purchased two beautiful hanks of Heritage Sock yarn (Cascade Yarns). I plan to use this soft superwash merino yarn for a scarf for my daughter’s roommate.

MindsEyeYarns1
At Mind’s Eye in Porter Square, I purchased a lovely skein of undyed handspun alpaca yarn and 3 balls of Online Linie 2 Supersocke Silk yarn. The alpaca was a stash purchase and will wait for the right project to find it. The sock yarn will be used for a scarf for my daughter (she picked it out).

BabyUll_1
I was still trying to decide what pattern and what yarn to use for the baby sweater I want to make for my new grandson due in January. After knitting the baby blanket, I decided not to use the same yarn for the sweater – so off I went to Personal Threads, one of the local yarn shops here in Omaha. There I found what I was looking for – I ended up buying Dale of Norway Baby Ull in three colors in sufficient quantity to knit a cardigan sweater and a romper to match! Oh, and I bought the pattern as well.

And finally…The Third Hat: Beret in Bee StitchAnd finally…The Third Hat: Beret in Bee Stitch

As you know from my previous post, I have been side-tracked with switching to a new computer and then finding that my blog had been hacked.  Well, I think I have recovered from the hack and I have all of my pictures and files transferred to my new computer — so, now to catch up and post about the third hat I started in January and finished in February.

My third hat is a beret knit in Bee Stitch.

Beret in Bee Stitch

This hat was also inspired by the thread about Hermione Granger’s hat in the Deathly Hallows, Part I, in the Harry Potter Lover’s group on Ravelry.  Again, I think the beret is fairly close to the original hat.

Bee Stitch Beret 4Details:  Hat was knit with Stitch Nation Full O’ Sheep (100% Peruvian Wool), using US Size 7 (4.5 mm) needles.  This yarn is very soft, aran weight, though I did find it a bit splinty.  The color is Passionfruit.  Stitch Nation is manufactured by Red Heart (Coats & Clark). 

When increasing for the beret, I basically doubled the number of stitches and it created a very slouchy beret, so if you’d like it a less slouchy, I’d only increase by 50%. I converted the Bee Stitch so I could knit it in the round and I wrote up the pattern to share with others, so here’s the link: Bee Stitch Beret.

To see my notes on Ravelry, use this link.