The Roomba Ate My Socks!

Roomba
I have a Roomba – which is a small robotic vacuum cleaner. You are supposed to be able to contain it to a single room using little devices called “lighthouses”. I really like this little guy for frequent vacuuming of my kitchen. So, the other day, I turned it on and left it to run around the kitchen while I did some things in my office.

Well, it escaped the kitchen and headed off into the living room – where my two at a time socks using magic loop project was laying beside my recliner (I’d left them there the night before) …AND…the Roomba ate my socks!

I heard this weird little sound coming from the living room and went to investigate – and there I found the Roomba thrashing about entangled in my 40” circular needle and the yarn from one of the socks. (I was so traumatized that I forgot to take a picture.)

After turning the Roomba off, it took me several minutes to remove the yarn from around the various moving parts and then deal with the fact that the circular needle had somehow ended up wrapped around one of the wheels. Eventually, I succeeded in extricating my circular needle – but it was a close call, as I had begun to consider the possibility of having to cut the cable. (WHEW!) Fortunately – one sock was still on the circular needle. The other, however, was laying in the middle of the floor – off the needle and minus its ball of yarn. I tenderly picked up this wounded creature and set it aside to recover from all the trauma.

I discovered that the lighthouse that should have prevented Roomba from going into the living room wasn’t working (dead batteries). Once I replaced the batteries, the darn little thing worked just fine and stayed in the kitchen where I wanted it to be.

Socks_BackTog
Happy News! – I was able to frog the wounded sock back to a point that I knew where I was in the pattern and then pick up the stitches and reconnect the yarn to the sock as I reknit it back to where it had been before it was attacked by the Roomba. It is now back on the same circular needle with its brother.

3 thoughts on “The Roomba Ate My Socks!”

  1. …or a lighthouse to set right next to that recliner! Oh, my goodness! I would have *cried*! I spend enough time froggin’ stuff due to my own errors! 😉

  2. Oh. MY. GOODNESS!!! I laughed and cried…it must have been quite a sight, but Oh, your poor socks!! Glad you were able to rework the wounded one. (Maybe this is why I only do 1 at a time on ML?! Nah, it’s cuz I mix up the yarn & knit them together!)

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Related Post

How to Knit a Helpful Swatch – Part 2 Stitch PatternsHow to Knit a Helpful Swatch – Part 2 Stitch Patterns

In my previous post, I discussed how to make a preliminary swatch to select the size needle that gives you a fabric that you like and then how to knit a gauge swatch. The gauge swatch is measured to give you your stitch gauge (stiches per inch) and your row gauge (rows per inch).

At this point, you might think you are ready to cast on and begin knitting your sweater – BUT….

Are you planning on using some type of ribbing for the bottom, cuffs and neckline of the garment? Are you planning on using a certain textured stitch pattern, a lace pattern or cables in your sweater? Will you be combining two or more stitch patterns in the body of the sweater? If the answer to any of these questions is “yes”, then you need to do more swatching.

Swatches with Borders: Have you ever knit something with a definite edge made by knitting either garter stitch or seed stitch and then found that the edges curl? The reason this happens is usually due to a difference in gauge between the stitch pattern used for the border and the stitch pattern used for the body. Thus, if you are knitting piece with a border that is different than the body of the piece, knitting a swatch with the borders on it provides you with an opportunity to make adjustments to minimize or eliminate the problem.  Suzanne Bryan has a nice video on this that you may find helpful, here’s the link:

Short Rows in Garter or Seed Stitch Border

Note: I don’t recommend using garter stitch borders on gauge swatches even though others do. The border tends to distort the swatch and may affect the accuracy of your measurements.

Swatches of Ribbing: Ribbing by nature tends to “pull in”. Which means that 30 stitches of ribbing will have a smaller width than 30 stitches of stockinette stitch. How much of a difference can be quite significant and affect the way the garment fits around the hips and neck as well as around the wrists on a long sleeve. Also, some knitters find that their ribbing stitches appear larger than their stockinette stitches due to changes in tension. One solution for this is to use a smaller needle when ribbing – but if you do that you may need to have more stitches to get the right width of fabric for a proper fit. Knitting a swatch with your selected ribbing pattern followed by a transition to the stitch being used for the body of the sweater will provide you with the information you need to decide what you want to do. You might want to knit separate swatches with different ribbing patterns to select which ribbing you prefer to use in your garment. (You don’t have to use the same ribbing that the designer did for the pattern if you don’t want to…just saying.)

Swatches of Stitch Patterns:

In this post, stitch patterns refer to textured pattern stitches, lace patterns, cable patterns, etc. Basically any grouping of stitches that combine to make a pattern from the variations in stitches used.

I think making a swatch of the stitch patterns used in a written pattern provides a great deal of useful information about how the finished garment will look and feel – and fit! It’s also good practice before doing it as part of your finished item.

Keep in mind that most written patterns only give gauge in stockinette stitch and while that tells you what the designer’s gauge is – it does not tell you how the gauge changes in the stitch pattern(s) used in knitting the garment. If you find a written pattern that states the gauge of the stitch pattern – great. But does your gauge match that? Swatching is the only way you will know.

If you are only using one stitch pattern, then knitting a swatch with two or more pattern repeats will help you figure out how the pattern affects the width and length of the garment and what adjustment you might need to make to obtain the correct size of garment you want. If you combine it with your ribbing, you will see how the ribbing affects the transition to the main fabric of the garment.

If you are combining more than one stitch pattern within the main fabric of a garment, I recommend doing individual swatches for each stitch pattern to use as a gauge swatches.

Then to see what happens when the stitch patterns are combined,  you should do a swatch large enough to include all of the stitch patterns used in the order you plan to use them. This may end up being a very large swatch – even enough stitches for the back of your garment. This type of swatch will provide you with a lot of helpful information and give you insight into what adjustments you might need to make for a great fitting garment.  More on this in a later post.

Teddy Bear Baby Blanket Finished!Teddy Bear Baby Blanket Finished!

TeddyBearBlanket_82009_1
I finished my Teddy Bear Baby Blanket this morning! I am very pleased with the finished project. The blanket measures 36 inches by 40 inches. The seed stitch border really sets off the reverse stockinette stitch teddy bear pattern.
TeddyBearSquare

Cast On MethodsCast On Methods

This is the first post about Cast Ons. There have been several books written about different cast on methods as well as many chapters in general knitting references and YouTube videos. What I know now as a long time, more experienced knitter is that there a lots and lots of different ways to accomplish the task of putting the first stitches on your needles so that you can begin to knit. But when I first started knitting, I only knew one way to cast on. That’s because, as I believe is the case for most beginners, I was only taught one way to cast on. And I suspect that my knitting teacher taught me that cast on because it was the method that she knew.

While visiting my older sister, I learned to knit from a woman who sold yarn kits and gave knitting lessons in her apartment. So, my first knitting project was a slipper pattern kit that came with the yarn, a set of needles and an easy beginner level pattern. I think I had maybe two lessons from her and I was off to knit on my own. My teacher taught me the “Knitted Cast On” method. I used this method for a long time before discovering another cast on method – the “Backwards Loop (or E-wrap)” cast on.

The first time I encountered the notion that there were other ways to cast on was when I was knitting my very first sweater and I ran into an issue and needed some help with my project. Now, I lived in a very small town and there weren’t many people who knew how to knit. My mother located a neighbor who did and was willing to help me, so I went over to her house with my sweater. The neighbor did help me get my problem fixed – but what I remember most clearly about this session was what she said about my cast on: “Oh, you cast on wrong.”

My 11 year old self didn’t comment on that statement, but I was doing a slow burn because “I DID Cast on the right way.” I had used the knitted cast on that I knew. A lot of time passed between this incident and my learning that there are many ways to accomplish the same thing in knitting. And – I am still learning different ways to cast on!

So, in this series of posts about cast ons, I will discuss the cast ons that I currently know how to do and when and with what projects I use them. Since it was the first one I learned, I’m starting with the Knitted Cast On.

The knitted cast on is an easy cast on to learn as a beginner. Essentially, you create your first stitch on your needle by making a slip knot, placing it on the needle and start the cast on by knitting  a stitch through the loop using your other needle. Once you have the stitch on the right hand needle, you slip it back onto the left hand needle and tighten it up a little, then knit into that stitch and repeat the process until you have  the desired number of stitches.

Where I use this cast on:

  • When I want a fairly firm , yet somewhat stretchy edge: project like scarves, some shawls, blankets
  • Casting on for underarm stitches or thumb gussets in gloves or mittens

Here’s a YouTube video on this cast on: Knitting Help – Knitted Cast On

Next Post: e-Wrap (Backwards Loop) and Cable Cast On Methods