I have finished the first re-creation of vintage crochet edging. This really is a simple 3 row edging, which makes a lovely lace edge on a dresser scarf or other table linen pieces. The pictures in this post are of a placemat that I made using muslin fabric, measuring 16 inches by 21 inches. I did a very narrow hem and then hemstitched along the inside edge of the hem.
Once hemstitched, I then crocheted a foundation of single crochet using white thread around the placement edges – going through the holes created by the hemstitching. To crochet the edging, I used an aqua crochet thread. The result is a decent replication of the original edging.
Re-created Vintage Crochet Edging
Original Vintage Crochet Edging
I have written up instructions for hemstitching, along with the instructions for the crochet edging. The pattern is available for free. Vintage Crochet Edging #1 Pattern
You may electronically copy and print to hard copy portions of this pattern for the sole purpose of using materials it contains for informational and non-commercial, personal use only. Any other use of this pattern — including any commercial use, reproduction for purposes other than described above, modification, distribution, republication, display, or performance — without the prior written permission of Lindy’s Knits & Laces is strictly prohibited
I inherited my mother’s stash of crochet thread several years ago. The stash filled two large plastic bins with lids and I simply placed the bins in with the rest of my stash. From time to time, I have pulled a ball of thread from one of the bins, but I never really inventoried the contents.
Recently, my MIL asked me to help a woman who had contacted her looking for help in locating off-white crochet thread that might match what she had. The woman was trying to finish up a crochet project that had been started by her mother, but not finished. So, I went to the stash and pulled out all of the off-white crochet thread (about 10 balls). I gave the woman all of thread and it looked like there were several balls that closely matched her project.
While I was doing pulling the balls from the stash, I picked up a ball of green crochet thread and noticed that there was something tucked inside the ball…
I pulled it out and found this:
Pretty, isn’t it? Now why my mother tucked this little doily into that ball of crochet, I have no idea — but it was a pleasant surprise. I am guessing about how old this bit of crochet is — the ball of crochet thread it was tucked into is at least 20 years old, so it’s at least that old and I suspect that the pattern it was made from is even older.
So, I set about trying to recreate this motif. Mom’s is on the left and mine is on the right. It’s pretty close, but I am redoing it a couple of times more to make certain I have the stitches correct. I will be publishing the pattern when I’m finished, so check back here in a week or two.
Yesterday I finished a crocheted pickup truck for my grandson. He is 5 months old and almost to the point where he will be playing with soft toys, rattles and items that he can chew on.
This little truck measures about 7 inches long by 3 inches wide and is about 3 inches tall. At the request of my son, I did NOT put a little bell inside of it — but I thought about it! It was an easy pattern to crochet and it went together very quickly.
Details: I purchased the pattern from Stacey Trock’s Fresh Stitches website and downloaded it directly from there. I used Knit Picks Shine Worsted for the truck body and Peaches and Cream in black for the tires and the pickup bed. You crochet the truck body and cab in one piece, the front is crocheted separately as are the lights — which are sewn in place before you stuff the front and attach it to the truck body. The tires and the pickup bed are separate pieces and you stuff the body as you go. It’s soft and squishy, but you can actually put something in the pickup bed as it has depth.
I think my grandson will enjoy his first red pickup truck. 🙂
I have read several Facebook posts and Ravelry forums where new knitters are asking about how to knit a basic hat. There are many basic beanie style hat patterns available for free on Ravelry, including one of mine: Basic Beanie Hat.
But the truth is that a basic beanie hat is fairly easy to knit without any pattern if you are familiar with its structure and know your gauge for the yarn you want to use for the hat. So this post is about the basic structure of a beanie, knit in the round.
Now, a beanie can be knit top down or bottom up, but if you look at most patterns, they are written with a bottom-up construction and this will be the approach I will follow here. There are three parts to a basic beanie: The brim, the body, and the crown. The brim of a beanie is usually done in either 1×1 ribbing (k1,p1) or 2×2 ribbing (k2,p2). The length of the brim can be relatively short – and intended to not be folded, or it can be longer so that it will be worn with the brim folded.
The body of a beanie is the part of the hat that covers the head from just above the ears to where the crown is formed. The length of the body varies according to the size of the hat, with children’s hats being shorter than an adults’ and Men’s hats are usually longer than Women’s. For a basic beanie this length is approximately the length from the top of the head to the bottom of the earlobe or half the length of measuring from the bottom of one earlobe to the other up over the top of the head.
The crown of a beanie is the area that covers the top of the head and is shaped by making decreases to form a circle that is closed at the very top.
To begin knitting the basic beanie you need to do a little math. You need to know what circumference you want it to be. If you have the measurement of the circumference of the head of person you want to fit, you can use that. If you don’t know the circumference, then you can use a standard size chart for the measurements. See the chart below. For a women’s head, I usually use a circumference of 21 – 22 inches as a starting point.
Knitted beanies are made with negative ease. Now what do I mean by that? Negative ease means that the knitted hat will be smaller than the actual circumference and I usually factor in about 10% negative ease for my beanies. This gives the hat a good fit and it hugs the wearer’s head and stays in place. Using an example of a 21 inch circumference, the knitted circumference with 10% negative ease is 19 inches. (10% of 21 = 2.1; 21-2 = 19 or if you prefer: 21 x 0.9 = 19)
You are now ready to determine how many stitches to cast on to start the brim of the beanie. For this you will need your stitch gauge in stitches per inch (spi). I usually have a gauge of 5 spi with worsted weight yarn, so in this example, I multiply 19 inches by 5 sts which gives me 95 sts. However, if I am doing 1×1 ribbing, I need an even number of stitches, so I can either round down to 94 or round up to 96 sts. If I do 2×2 ribbing, I need an even number of stitches, but the number also has to be divisible by 4. In this example, 96 is divisible by 4, so I would start with 96.
For a Women’s beanie, I usually like to knit the ribbing to a length of approximately 2 inches and then start the body. For a basic beanie, I knit the body in stockinette stitch. The body area is where you can add various textured stitch patterns or knit stripes using different colors of yarn. But the very basic beanie is knit in stockinette stitch.
The length of the hat is determined by measuring the length of the wearer’s head from the lower earlobe to the top of the crown. Another way is to measure the head from the bottom of one earlobe over the top of the head to the bottom of the other earlobe and then divide that number by 2. For a women’s hat, I usually use a length of 10.5 to 11 inches, for a men’s hat I use 11 to 11.5 inches. See the standard size chart above for further information. The crown of the hat is approximately 1/3 of the total length of the hat. So, once the ribbing is done, you knit the body to the desired length where the crown shaping starts (measured from the cast on edge). In my example of a women’s hat with a total length of 11 inches, I would knit to a length of 7.5inches. The remaining length of the hat is where the crown is shaped using decreases.
My next post covers things you need to consider to knit the crown of the beanie.
